Go Places & Eat Things

iPad induced memories of a centuries-old city

I was checking out the offerings served up this morning on my Zite Personalized Magazine app for the iPad  and found this lovely article about Bologna, Italy in the New York Times. It had me pushing aside a few years worth of mental clutter to uncover the Wayback Machine. In I hopped and soon I was transported back a few years and several centuries, ambling along covered walkways, making my way to Piazza Maggiore, where I sat, sipping wine in the spreading shade of a springtime afternoon. There are photos, somewhere, in a box that is in storage at the moment. But I don't need photos to recall the feeling of time slowed, even in the ebb and flow of strolling pedestrians on a major shopping avenue. And somewhere nearby, a church where a companion and I lit candles and sent good thoughts into the universe. The richness of flavors tasted for the first time in a little restaurant - known to some Italian friends, where we ate what the proprietor had prepared - are still on my tongue, though the name of the restaurant is not.

Interesting that these memories of centuries old Bologna were brought to life again by a very modern device. Bologna is one of the many places I experienced while traveling on business, to which I'd like to return with a very different agenda, or no agenda at all.

May it go your way!

Connecting with a city and its people takes a little extra effort when traveling on business, but the rewards can be rich. My trip last week to Munich is a case in point, with days spent at a trade fair and my evenings free. But as long as I could find the energy, I was willing to go places and eat things.

My colleagues and I arrived in Munich mid-morning on Sunday and as soon as we had checked into our hotel and eaten a little lunch to boost our energy levels, we were climbing aboard Munich's fantastic public transit system, headed for the heart of the city: Marienplatz.

I don't remember exactly how or when I first heard about the Rathaus-Glockenspiel there, but it is something I have wanted to see for a long time. It was exciting to come up out of the subway on Marienplatz and see it right in front of me, so you can imagine how much fun it was to see it in action at 5 p.m. that day. The carillon is part of the new town hall construction that was completed in 1909.

The square is surrounded by shops and restaurants, but the Ratskeller called, so we went inside for a beer. Jet-lagged as I was, I can't tell you what kind of beer I had to drink, but I do remember ordering a little treat called Obazda, which is described on the menu as bavarian camembert and cream cheese spread with weizenbeer, paprika and onions. It was exactly what I was craving at that moment, and it went really well with the beer. I have since seen it described as a Bavarian beer garden classic (also spelled Obatzda). Here's what it looked like:

What's not to like, right? One beer and a plate of obazda and it was time to find our way back to the hotel. But we returned the next night and discovered the vegan side of Munich. Prosit!

Perfect Summer Days

After days of rain that never seemed to end, and before the current heat and humidity pressed in, we enjoyed a run of perfect summer days here in the Chicago area. I'm talking about sunshine, temperatures in the 70s and low 80s, and that cloudless, endless blue sky the color of carefree childhood mornings spent roaming the local park, days that call you outside in magical voices that refuse to be ignored.

On two such perfect days, we made our way to Chicago by train and to Millennium Park which, at 24.5 acres is considerably larger than the playground of my youth, but no less ripe for discovery. Gardens, walkways and fountains that are wonderful on any day of the year are positively enchanting on such a perfect day, when the laughter of children and the hum of nature and human activity are never noise but music to the ear.

You're probably thinking that a picnic lunch would have been the best way to enjoy all this summer wonder, and you would be right. But on one day we just had a taste for a beer and, because it was a little early on the calendar for Taste of Chicago, we made our way into The Gage, a restaurant and tavern across Michigan Avenue from Millennium Park. We've eaten there before and the Smithwick's is always cold, the food is good and the service is great. On another day, dressed more for work than for play due to a meeting in the area, we ducked into the Elephant and Castle on West Adams for a quick bite. This was our first experience with the chain and we kept lunch really simple, so we have to go back some time for a more leisurely visit.

We walked around a bit before making our way back to the train, stopping into Pastoral, the artisan cheese, bread and wine shop, on one trip and checking out the Chicago French Market on another. As a former commuter, I found myself wishing the French Market had been there a decade ago. It would have been a pleasant stop before climbing aboard the train for home.

Here's to perfect summer days.

Pure Comfort Food

On our last day in Boulder, my friend and I spent the morning looking at real estate before heading to Colterra, in nearby Niwot, for brunch. The temperature had dipped overnight and the sun was in hiding, but the restaurant was warm and inviting and our server was charming and helpful.

I ordered a glass of Prosecco and perused the menu. On this late winter visit, dishes comprising fall and late harvest vegetables were especially appealing. I passed on the appetizer Grand Marnier beignets with warm local Madhava alfalfa honey in favor of the roasted local beet salad with field greens, chevre, walnuts and raspberry vinaigrette. I love the texture and complex flavor of beets, especially in a cold salad.

For my entree, I was seriously torn between the roasted forest mushroom omelette with arugula and chevre, and the fall vegetable gnocchi with forest mushrooms and roasted local squash. The gnocchi won and it was pure comfort food. I asked to be shown to a private room where I could lick my plate -- it was that good. I thought about skipping dessert, but the beignets were calling my name, so I tried them. Warm, flavorful beignets topped with warm honey were just what the gray, rainy day called for.

My friend ordered the all natural Long Farm ham, poached egg and chard with bearnaise sauce. She declared it a really nice take on ham and eggs with a bearnaise of perfect consistency.

Colterra was a wonderful finale to the dining portion of our brief tour of Boulder and environs.

If you want to enjoy more fun foodie posts, check out WanderFood Wednesday.

Boulder's Local Flavors

So many great restaurants, so little time...That's how I felt as I sat pondering the many fine Boulder restaurants I'd read about or passed by on my walks around town. The answer to the question of where to go for dinner on my last evening - a Saturday night - in Boulder, was not going to be easily answered. I asked the front desk staff at my hotel for help in securing reservations, but soon discovered that many restaurants don't books tables in advance. I also learned that the dinner hour starts early in Boulder and that I might have better luck getting a table if I waited until after 8 p.m.

I was able to make a reservation for 8:30 at Black Cat Farm Table Bistro, but at 6 p.m. we were hungry and ready for a glass of wine. Two women I had spoken with earlier in the day had recommended The Med (1002 Walnut St.) for a drink and an appetizer from the tapas menu so we headed there, but the place was packed. Nice for everyone with a seat, but we had to move on.

High on my list of places to try was chef Bradford Heap's restaurant, Salt ( 1047 Pearl St.), so we headed over there and were quickly seated in the downstairs bar. The restaurant interior has quite a story, with many of the materials used having been recycled from Tom's Tavern, the business that had occupied the space for 40 years. We quickly had drinks in hand and, enveloped in the buzz of the comfortably crowded room, we contemplated the menu.

The food philosophy at Salt starts with the premise that the best food travels the shortest distance, and much of the credit for the great meals is given to the local farmers and ranchers who supply the restaurant. I like that. Keeping our 8:30 reservation in mind, we ordered from the small plates section of the menu. The Haystack cheese plate comprised a selection of Haystack Mountain Dairy cheeses including Aspen Ash, three onion jam, mostarda and grilled bread. The flavorful jam and mostarda complemented the cheeses beautifully. We also tried the crispy polenta & grilled d'Anjou pear with dolce latte gorgonzola sauce and pine nuts. The textures and flavors brought something a little different to every bite. On our way out, we saw people enjoying the wood grilled pork chop and the Tom's Tavern burger from the entree selection. It all looked good. The menu also includes a vegetable tasting that at this time of year included roasted beet risotto cake, Tuscan beans, garlic seared escarole, forest mushroom farrotto and more. I hated to leave without tasting more.

We arrived at Black Cat (1964 13th St.) right on schedule and eager to try chef Eric Skokan's farm-to-table menu. From the amuse bouche of delice de jura to the salmon and scallop entrees and dessert, we enjoyed the food and so much more, including the attractive space and the efficient and harmonious service. I'd love to return in a month or two to taste what comes out of the restaurant's garden in the springtime.

Three by 3 in Boulder

The second day of my recent visit to Boulder, Colorado, opened with the promise of weather well suited to leisurely walking and outdoor dining - a real treat on a late winter day. Little did I know when I set out from Hotel Boulderado that I would enjoy three meals by 3 p.m!

There are plenty of options for morning coffee on the streets of Boulder, so I left the hotel early and walked over to Pearl Street, quickly choosing Atlas Purveyors (1505 Pearl Street) for that important first cup of the day. The door stood open to the mild morning and I enjoyed a cup of coffee and a light breakfast, and watched Boulder wake up outside, while an artist installed a new work on the shop's chalkboard wall inside. Atlas Purveyors also serves tea and food items.

After coffee, my plan was to head over to the Museum of Contemporary Art just a few blocks away at 1750 13th St., thinking for some reason that it opened at 9 a.m. on Saturday. When the door was still locked at 10, I called the museum from across the street in Central Park and learned the opening time was actually 11. Moving quickly to Plan B, I walked through the park, admiring Boulder Creek and  dodging runners at every turn, and crossing the street to The Boulder Dushanbe Tea House (1770 13th St.), which is open daily for breakfast, lunch, dinner and tea.

The Teahouse was a gift to Boulder from its sister city, Dushanbe, Tajikistan. Artisans there created hand carved walls and ceilings, ceramic panels for the outside of the building and other decorative components, assembling the teahouse and then taking it apart again to ship it to Boulder. Locals I spoke with seemed proud of the gift from the people of Dushanbe, and the crowd inside made it clear that I should stop and check out the menu.

The crowd inside also meant a wait for a table, but there was no waiting outside in the pleasant dining area with a great view of the exterior tile panels decorated with a Tree of Life pattern. I ordered a cup of lightly smokey, slightly spicy Russian Caravan tea that came to the table loose and brewing in a little white pot. The knowledgable server left a 3-minute timer and instructions for brewing my tea selection. From the brunch menu, I considered the Persian Chickpea Kufteh and the Szechuan Tofu Scramble before deciding on the Indian Masala Dosa. The cumin and fennel crepe held a warm mixture of fragrant curried vegetables, which along with the dahl, sweet raisin chutney, cucumber yoghurt and onion fritter created a wonderful combination of flavors and textures. For dessert, I denied my inner chocolate monster, selecting a dish of warm gingerbread pyramids with a tangerine sugar reduction and ginger whipped cream. If it had been my last meal of the day I would have been completely satisfied, but I was just getting warmed up.

After brunch, I returned to the Boulder Museum of Contemporary Art and this time I got inside. Three exhibits were on display in the modest space, so my visit didn't take long, but the art was by turns powerful, playful and thought provoking. Perfect!

I spent the next few hours window shopping and reading menus displayed at the many restaurants on my path. I especially enjoyed Peppercorn kitchen and home store, Two Hands Paperie, Bayleaf on Pearl and Barbara & Company, all on Pearl Street.

Around 3 p.m., I was tired and thirsty and knew that what I wanted most was a beer. I recalled seeing an Irish Pub near the hotel and headed over to 13th Street. For the next hour, I sat near the wide open front window at Conor O'Neill's (1922 13th St.) drinking a Smithwick's and snacking on a lunch-size order of fish and chips.

After that it was back to the hotel to rest up for dinner!

Discovering Boulder

We roll into Boulder, Colorado, a little before noon on a Friday, having driven the short, table-flat expanse from Denver International Airport in a rented Camry. Our low-impact transition from the highway to this city of 100,000 people was due to the complete absence of high-speed expressway traffic and roller-coaster off-ramps, the low-profile skyline, and the flatirons, foothills of the Rockies, visible west of town.

It is sunny and 50+ degrees on this late winter day and I am immediately in deep "like" with Boulder. I'm visiting with a friend, who is expected shortly at an afternoon meeting,  so we check into Hotel Boulderado and off she goes, leaving me to explore and enjoy this beautiful day on my own. This town clearly is made for walking, so I set out in the direction of brewing coffee and an outdoor seat to watch the scene. At an information kiosk on the Pearl Street pedestrian mall I find a treasure - a brochure called "Boulder Sliced & Diced: A Chefs' Guide for Visitors," in which top local chefs describe how they would spend a perfect day in the city. Coffee in hand, I sit down to map out my culinary path for the next 2.5 days. So much to do, so little time.

I head back to the hotel for a late lunch at The Corner Bar, where I enjoy chef John Platt's grilled salmon sandwich with red onion marmalade, spinach, and horseradish aioli, and a pint of Ellie's Brown Ale from Boulder's Avery Brewing Company. The English brown ale is creamy and nutty/sweet, and I make a note to look for it again. I enjoy trying local brews, but since I can only manage one or two at the most with a meal, I often wonder what I might have missed. The Ellie's Brown Ale was a great choice!

Back on foot, I walk off my lunch while discovering some of Boulder's historic downtown buildings including the Art Deco/Art Moderne style Boulder County Courthouse (1325 Pearl Street) designed by architect Glen H. Huntington, and the Art Deco Boulder Theatre (2032 14th Street), built in 1935-6. The Hotel Boulderado also is in the downtown historic district. It was built with money raised from the sale of public stock and opened on New Year's Day in 1909, and is a popular place for weddings and receptions.

I caught up with my friend around 7 p.m. Pearl Street was lively as we made our way to Centro Latin Kitchen & Refreshment Palace (950 Pearl Street), where our wait for a table was smoothed by a Don Julio Reposado on ice and people watching in the rustic decor of chef Ian Clark's popular restaurant. For dinner, I enjoyed the griddled shrimp tacos with garlic-chipotle mojo, and my friend had the white sea bass grilled in banana leaf with vinegar-chile-tomato sauce and grilled potatoes.

What a fantastic start to my exploration of Boulder, Colorado.

Monaco in Wet Shoes

I had checked the weather forecast one last time before we headed to the airport, so I can't say I didn't know what to expect. Rain. But I've been to Monaco several times before and always in October, so I wasn't surprised and I was not about to let a little precipitation keep me from enjoying this beautiful place. We had packed umbrellas, after all, and as nice as it was, we were NOT sitting in the hotel.

The afternoon started out like so many others when we travel, strolling casually, following our whims and the winding streets of Monaco. The rain was light and occasional. We soon found ourselves on the lovely avenue Saint Laurent, in the place des Moulins area of Monte Carlo, where we happened upon a wine shop/restaurant called Wine O'Clock, with a wonderful selection of wines by the glass and by the bottle, and a menu of tapas and specialties. Coincidentally, it was on my list of places to visit, having discovered it on the Web site maBoum.com, which you should check out before heading to Monaco, and follow its tweets while you’re there for updates on restaurants and events.

At three in the afternoon we had the place to ourselves, so we sipped a satisfying 2006 Bandol from Domaines Vannieres in Provence, and enjoyed a little pique-nique lunch of charcuterie, or prepared meats, and cheeses. On the pique-nique was a tasty wedge of Comté, a creamy, nutty cow’s milk cheese I first tasted on a memorable trip to Brive-la-Gaillarde several years ago with my friend Jane. The Wine O’Clock manager was friendly and informed, and we left relaxed and happy, laughing at the rain that was falling gently but with growing attitude.

We window-shopped our way toward La Condamine, the harbor district, thinking we might find a place to return to later that evening for dinner. We had a restaurant in mind, one that had been recommended, but later found out we were looking for it in the wrong place, and by that time we lacked the enthusiasm to pursue it. When the rain really picked up, we paused under the awning of a store and took some nighttime photos of the city. My feet were now uncomfortably wet inside my shoes, but it was still a little early for dinner so, with a sigh and a squelch, we began to retrace our steps back toward our hotel.

By the time we had made our way back to avenue Saint Laurent, my inexpensive little umbrella was turning itself inside out against the wind gusts blowing rain sideways into our faces. There, like a beacon, was the inviting La Romantica, right next door to Wine O’Clock, its proprietor inviting us in from the doorway. La Romantica serves up classic Italian dishes and on that wet and windy evening, nothing sounded better. We quickly relaxed in the small, intimate dining room under friendly and attentive service, despite the sound of the rain that was now lashing the outside of the building. Comfortable and warm inside, we enjoyed the meal. My husband had asparagi alla Monferrina and trofie al pesto Ligure and I had parmigiana de melanzane and pennette rigate con gamberi e zucchine. Wonderful.

Cozy and warm in this charming restaurant, we had to muster flagging reserves to make our way back to the hotel. Collapsing into the comfy chairs in the bar, soaked to the skin and tired from miles of walking, we enjoyed a nightcap with that same friend, Jane, from the Brive-la-Gaillarde trip, who was in town on business, reminiscing about past visits to Monaco and looking forward to the promise of sun in the morning.

Seen and Heard in Austin

Business travel can sound exciting, especially to those who stay behind, but in reality there often is little time for even casual sightseeing or a decent restaurant meal. With travel budgets tighter than ever right now, road warriors are taking late flights home rather than spending for an additional hotel night, and dinner often is grabbed on the way to the gate and eaten on the plane. Very glamorous. Still, if you can fit it in, a little sightseeing can really enrich a trip. At minimum, put the cell phone in your purse or pocket, take the headphones out of your ears, and look around you as you walk to your next appointment. What sights you’ll see!  

On a recent business trip to Austin, Texas, a city I had never before visited, I was determined to get out of the exposition center and see a little of my surroundings. When I wrapped up my appointment schedule early, I stopped by the desk provided by the local convention and visitors bureau to see what I could fit in. This is a neat little service that you should take advantage of whenever you can.  I learned that Austin Overtures Sightseeing was offering a 90-minute, 30-mile tour of the city and local hill country, with start times that worked with my schedule.  Meanwhile, the Austin Convention and Visitors Bureau had a menu of scheduled walking tours and optional self-guided tours. In the end, I decided on a walking tour of my own design that took me up Congress Avenue to the beautiful red granite Texas State Capitol and its park-like grounds, and around the Bremond Block, described as “fashionable residences of Victorian families, 1854-1898". On the way I passed a couple of interesting galleries of Mexican art that I wished I had time for. While it was sunny, hot and humid in Austin, I got outside and learned a little more about this exciting town.  

Highly visible on my walking tour were a number of skyscrapers under construction, including the Austonian, a residential complex that topped out at 683 feet just last month and will open to residents mid-2010. It is just one of several projects nearing completion. An upside to all the construction is, of course, jobs and hundreds of people have been kept employed working on the Austonian.  

Workers were still cleaning up after the 2009 Austin City Limits music festival when I arrived in town, but the music sure hadn’t stopped. It spilled out of doors along Sixth Street as I walked back to my hotel from an evening event at Maggie Mae’s where a great trio was playing. Sadly, I never heard its name. The bat colony under the Congress Avenue Bridge that everyone talks about was a little underwhelming, but it was my own fault. The bridge was just outside my hotel and I stayed on that side of the span, instead of heading to the far end where I could see a number of tour boats gathered (hint, hint). I did see a few bats stirring around below me and, frankly, it was enough bats to last me a good long while.

I was still learning about Austin as I made my way by taxi to the airport very early the next morning. My driver told me the Texas State Capitol is the largest state capitol building in the U.S., although it is not the tallest.  You can learn a lot from cab drivers if you’re receptive, and you can pick up interesting bits and pieces about a place if you get out on foot and pay attention.  

At Home in Your World

There’s a gate in the fence at the back of our property, between our yard and the neighbor’s. It stands open much of the time, facilitating the free passage of our pets and theirs, greatly expanding the dogs’ demesnes. I have a cherished memory of a furry friend that is no longer with us crossing into the other yard, climbing the stairs to the back door and being let into the house for a treat and a friendly visit.  

Over the years, we’ve traded dog-sitting favors that might last a few hours or a week at a time. Calvin, the neighbor’s cherished pet and our pal, has come to know the best places in our house to hide during a storm, what time we put dinner on the table, the cupboard where treats are stored, where to look for “his” bowl, and which of us doesn’t eat meat. (Don’t bother begging from that one!)  

From my office window I can watch Calvin pass through the gate and into our yard, traveling the same worn path he always takes to our back stairs, and making his way slowly up to the door, where he taps or whines or gives his high-pitched “hey, I’m here” bark to be let in. If the door happens to be standing open, he walks right in, a move that has startled more than one guest who had not yet been introduced. Calvin visits about once a day on average, trusting his welcome and fitting seamlessly into our routine.  We sometimes find him stretched out on our deck or patio, soaking up the sun and watching for signs of food going onto the grill on his own deck next door. Inside, he’ll flop down on the floor in front of the television and rest. One day recently he arrived at our door with a massive bone between his teeth, settled into his spot in front of the TV and stayed there for a good 30 minutes gnawing on his treat. It seemed like a statement of his complete comfort in his surroundings. This far part of his kingdom feels like home, he seemed to imply. It felt like a high compliment.  

Regular travel to the same location offers many opportunities for feeling at home in your world. Passing through the gate at a now-familiar airport comes with excitement and a sense of homecoming, the discomfort of the long journey forgotten in the anticipation of what’s to come. You know the café with the best coffee, which day is market day, the location of a good Irish pub, and you return time and again to a favorite restaurant.  

And like Calvin with the bone he brought over, you discover that it is okay to bring a little bit of home along with you on your trip. The one time we were away from friends and family at Christmas, escaping the snow and cold, I had a holiday centerpiece sent to our hotel room, and we held to a couple simple traditions to mark the occasion, enjoying the best of two world’s and feeling at home in both.